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Mt. Fuji 2

Instantly recognizable the world ever, the near-perfect cone of Mt. Fuji, standing astride the border of Shizuoka and Yamanashi prefectures, is both Japan’s tallest mountain and an enduring symbol of the country.
Fujisan (never Fujiyama) is a dormant volcano standing 3,776 meters (12,388 feet) tall. Through the centuries, the Japanese people have forged a relationship with the mountain that is difficult for foreigners to fully appreciate. A pilgrimage site for more than a thousand years, Mt. Fuji has also been the subject of poems, songs, and countless pictures, most notable the two ‘36 Views of Mount Fuji’ produced by the ukiyo-e artists Hokusai and Hiroshige.

The area around the base Mt. Fuji is a popular getaway destination for Tokyoites and other Japanese, striking a good balance between development for the tourist industry and preservation of the landscape that draws the tourists. Five lakes, the Fujigoko, are excellent spots for fishing and hiking, as well as offering some of the best views of the mountain.

However, for most visitors the main reason to visit Mt. Fuji is to climb it, and every year some two to three hundred thousand people do just that, more than a third of them foreigners. The climb is divided into 10 stations, starting at the base and winding toward the crater’s rim high above. The last 1,500 meters or so are above tree line, with two of the most popular trails crossing ash fields remaining from Fuji’s last eruption in 1708.
If you have time and feel ambitious, you might consider starting at the base. Three routes begin from the bottom. The oldest of these, the Murayama trail, is one option, though it may be more interesting to head for the Yoshida route. Here you’ll find old inns and teahouses, as well as a major Sengen shrine, dedicated to the goddess of the mountain, and waterfalls and springs to purify yourself for the ascent.

These days, though, the lower slopes are largely deserted. Most people drive or take a bus up to one of four fifth stations on the mountain and begin from there, already above tree line. The official climbing season, in July and August, sees hordes of visitors climbing and descending the mountain. A series of fairly Spartan huts, with floor space for between 150 and 500 guests, provide sleeping arrangements for about 5,000 yen. If you’d like to use the huts, it’s probably best to make reservations during the climbing season.

Even from the fifth stations, the climb will take from two to seven hours, depending on which station you begin from and how quickly you climb. Despite the fact that there are thousands of people climbing with you, don’t assume that this will be an easy endeavor. Mt. Fuji is tall, cold, and utterly unfit for human habitation. On the higher slopes there is no shelter from winds that are, occasionally, strong enough to literally blow hikers off the mountain. Many hikers succumb to altitude sickness, and others find that the uneven, tilting pitch of the trails is harder walking than they were prepared for. This is all compounded by the fact that many hikers make the ascent by night, so that they can be on the summit to view the sunrise. Be sure to come prepared, with water, snacks, good boots, and enough extra clothing to counter any problems that may arise. It’s famously said that a wise man climbs Fuji once, while only a fool climbs twice. Unfortunately, many first time climbers make foolish assumptions about how demanding the climb will be.
When you reach the summit, you’ll pass through a small torii gate and soon come face to face with the crater itself. It’s an unsettling sight, but if you still have energy you can make a full circuit of the crater in about an hour. On the far side of the crater rim, you’ll come to a decommissioned weather station that is right next to the highest point on the rim, and in the country. You may also want to bring up a postcard; the tiny post office at the summit is a great place from which to send a letter home. Round out your time at the top with a bowl of noodles, a drink from one of the vending machines that have been brought up, and a visit to the main Sengen shrine located here. Then it’s time for the descent. On the way up you’ll have heard “Ganbatte!” (Hang in there!) a hundred times or more. Be sure, as you head back for your bus, to offer the same encouragement to all the wise men and fools you pass on the way.

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Yamanashi Tourist Information (English, Chinese, Korean)

-Matt Mangham　

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