 The largest city in southern Hokkaido, Hakodate also boasts some of the island’s most colorful history.
The site of early Japanese trading outposts, Ainu rebellions, and the short-lived, mostly forgotten breakaway Republic of Ezo, today Hakodate is both an important port city as well as the gateway to Hokkaido.
Hakodate is probably better known for its seafood than for its sights, but there are a few things worth looking at before you hit the restaurants. Chief among them, according to locals, is the night view from the top of Mt. Hakodate, accessible by ropeway or bus. Looking out over the city lights and harbor, you’ll enjoy what Hakodate’s civic boosters call one of the “Best Three Night Views” in the world. It’s hard to say where this list originated, but if you’re interested the other two are Hong Kong and Naples.
Toward the bottom of the mountain, the old district of Motomachi preserves a good number of western style houses, churches, and consulate buildings, many of them built during the city’s glory days as one of only three Japanese ports open to international trade following the 1858 Treaty of Amity and Commerce signed with the US. The foreign merchant’s and diplomat’s houses scattered through the neighborhood, along with other buildings, have led some to dub Motomachi the “San Francisco of Japan.”
Fort Goryokaku is a western style fort that was originally built in 1864 to defend the port against a possible Russian attack. However, the fort gained a new prominence when, in late 1868, the last forces loyal to the Tokugawa Shogunate seized it and, at the urging of French advisors who may not have had their best interests at heart, declared the independent Republic of Ezo. The Republic surrendered to the new Meiji government's navy without a fight a few months after its establishment, and today the fortifications have largely been demolished and Goryokaku is a popular park, as well as the site of open-air amateur plays in July and August dramatizing the city’s history.
And so we come at last to the seafood. Hakodate is famous especially for its king crab and squid, both highly prized throughout Japan. At the bustling Asaichi morning market, just west of the railway station, visitors will see an amazing collection of crab, squid, octopus and countless other fresh catches, some of which they may not be able to identify. The sushi restaurants near the market and close to the waterfront are probably among the best places (certainly the most atmospheric) to eat some of what you’ve seen at the market. Hakodate also boasts its own variety of ramen, called ika shioramen. Rather than the near-universal slice of pork floating in your broth, you’ll find a slice of grilled squid that has subtly flavored the whole dish. Another local favorite is ikameshi, whole squid stuffed with rice. Truly delicious.
And to celebrate their relationship with the squid, every summer from August 1st to the 5th, an estimated 20,000 townspeople take to the streets during the Hakodate Port Festival to do the Squid Dance, a hand-flapping, wiggly affair that’s great fun to watch. In the past, most people wore kimono and straw hats for the dance, but each year increasing numbers of dancers show up in squid costumes. Definitely worth a look.
●Hakodate Ropeway
>>Access
Hakodate Ekimae====(10 min. by street car)====Jujigai====(10 min. On foot)====Mt. Hakodate Ropeway
>>Open Hours
Jan. 1st and Dec. 31st: 10:00 to 18:00
Jan. 2nd - April 25th, Nov. 1st - Dec. 30th: 10:00 - 21:00
April 26th - May 6th, July 25th - Aug.20th: 9:00 - 22:00
May 7th - July 24th, Aug.21st - Oct. 31st: 10:00 - 22:00
>>Fee
Adult: 640 yen, Child: 320 yen (One way)
Adult: 1,160yen, Child: 590 yen (Round trip)
>>Website
Hakodate Ropeway (English, Chinese)
●Hakodate Port Festival
>>Access
JR Hakodate Station====(20 min. by taxi)====Hakodate Port
JR Hakodate Station====(20 min. by Hakodate bus)====Hokudai Suisangakubumae====(5 min. on foot)====Hakodate Port
>>Date
August 1st - 5th
>>Website
Hakodate, Southern Hokkaido Tourist Guide (English, Korean, Chinese)
-Matt Mangham
|
