Onomichi
The Town that Tilts　

 Wedged between the island-studded Seto Inland Sea and the steep, forested hills rising from the coast, the little town of Onomichi is one of Hiroshima prefecture’s real treasures. The fact that most of it can be seen in a day makes it a perfect day trip for visitors to the area, or a stopover for those passing through.

　A port town, a tourist destination, a temple center; Onomichi has been all of these for most of its history. Envoy ships left here for China in ancient times, and goods from across Japan flowed in and out of the port with the regularity of the tides. Because of the trade, the town was wealthy from its earliest period, and many of the merchants repaid their good fortune by erecting temples on the hillsides. Today, a very pleasant temple walk leads visitors past 25 temples, belonging to a variety of Buddhist sects. More recently, the local film director Obayashi Nobuhiko showed the city to its best advantage in his movies, generating interest in Onomichi throughout the country.

　Onomichi’s nickname is the “Town on the Slope,” and you’ll see why immediately. Most of the older portion of the town clings to the face of a steep slope rising from the harbor. Many of the streets here obviously predate the automobile, and the narrow, tree-shaded lanes that wind among the old houses and temples are a paradise for walkers. Part of the fun is the sense of getting lost in the maze of steep alleys and pathways, some of them tiled, but always being able to spot the harbor below or a landmark temple. If that sounds too strenuous, there’s also a ropeway which will carry you to Senkoji Park at the top of the hill in about three minutes. The view from the ropeway is amazing, and it carries you right over the rooftops of several temples, making it feel as if you’re flying up the hill. From the top, you can stroll back downhill through the park, which has thousands of cherry trees, and the “Literary Path,” which offers stunning views of the Inland Sea and stones carved with passages from some of Japan’s most famous authors. You’ll clamber down past Senkoji Temple, and the weathered pagoda of Tenneiji Temple before eventually tumbling back out onto the streets below. On the way, pause at Saikokuji Temple to see the enormous straw sandals flanking the gate, compare the size of your hand with a number of handprints from famous sumo wrestlers set in stone along the path, or stop to make your own clay Buddha at Jikoji Temple for only 500 yen.

　When you get back to the bottom of the hill, don’t forget to wander through Onomichi’s old shopping arcade. The town has become increasingly popular with craftsmen and artists in recent years, and many of their shops in the arcade offer wonderful handmade goods. Additionally, the atmosphere of the arcade, and a small cluster of old homes adjacent to it has been very well preserved, and gives a real sense of an earlier Japan, a commodity which is becoming harder and harder to find.



>>ACCESS
Airplane
Hiroshima Airport====(Express bus, 15min.)====Takasaka===(Express bus "Flower Liner", 30min.)===Onomichi Station

Shinkansen
Hiroshima station===(JR Sanyo Shinkansen "Kodama", 40min.)===Shin-Onomichi station====(by taxi, 10 min..)====Onomichi Station

Okayama station===(JR Sanyo Shinkansen "Kodama", 35min.)===Shin-Onomichi station====(by taxi, 10 min..)====Onomichi Station

Train
Hiroshima station===(JR Sanyo Honsen line", 90min.)===Onomichi station

Okayama station===(JR Sanyo Honsen line", 75min.)===Onomichi station

Car
Sanyo Express Way, Onomichi IC====(Route 184, 20 min.)====Onomichi stayion

>>MAP
Hiroshima prefecture map>>>Click here to view
Onomichi town map>>>Click here to view

>>Website
Onomichi city (English)
West JR (English, Chinese)
Japan Rail Pass (English, Korean, Chinese, French, German)
Hiroshima Airport (English, Korean, Chinese)

                                                                       -Matt Mangham