Itsukushima Shrine

Itsukushima, or Miyajima, is a small island near the city of Hiroshima, and home to one of Japanfs most important shrines. Itsukushima Shrine almost certainly dates to the 6th century, though the island itself may have been regarded as sacred much earlier. The records of the shrine itself say that the goddesses inhabiting the island descended from heaven in the year 593, during the reign of the Empress Suika.

The present form of the shrine first appeared in the 12th century. The architectural style, called Shinden, was typical of noble houses in the late Heian era. The long, red-lacquered halls and cloisters are set on piers over tidal flats, and at high tide the entire structure famously appears to float. Standing in the water some distance before the shrine is its famous red Otorii gate, one of the Three Views of Japan, a list of Japanfs most beautiful sights generally attributed to the seventeenth century scholar Hayashi Razan.

Itsukushima Shrine is one of Japanfs most important, befitting the status accorded to the island since ancient times. One reason for the shrinefs unusual construction may have been that the island was considered so sacred that Itsukushimafs designers were reluctant to build on the soil itself and placed as much of the shrine as possible, including the Otorii gate, in or over the water.

Until 1878, neither births nor deaths were permitted on the island, and even today burials are prohibited to preserve the ritual purity of the island.

The shrine is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and most of its buildings and several objects are designated National Treasures. The shrine also has old and close ties to the other shrines and temples occupying the island, and hosts a variety of cultural events throughout the year. No visit to western Japan is complete without making the trip to Miyajima.



Taira no Kiyomori
Taira no Kiyomori is one of the towering figures of the late Heian period. Head of the powerful Taira clan following the death of his father, Kiyomori. Having entered political life with an energy and ambition that roused suspicion on all sides, in 1156 Kiyomori and Minamoto no Yoshitomo, head of the Minamoto clan, took the winning side in the Hogen Rebellion. One of the bloodiest conflicts in Japan’s history, the Rebellion had erupted over questions of imperial succession. Having established their clans as the most important warrior clans in the capital of Kyoto, however, the two men very quickly became rivals for influence at court.

In the Heiji Rebellion of 1159, Kiyomori’s forces killed Yoshitomo and his two eldest sons and the Taira clan emerged as the single most powerful warrior clan in Kyoto. However, at the request of his wife, Kiyomori allowed Yoshitomo’s three youngest sons to go into exile. The conflict and its eventual consequences provided the raw material for the Tale of Heike, one of Japan’s most beloved epics.

As the head of his clan, suddenly unrivaled in power in Kyoto, Kiyomori began to swiftly climb through the ranks of the courtiers, culminating in his appointment in 1167 as the first Daijo Daijin to come from a warrior family. This was the highest courtier rank, usually translated as Chief Minister. Having attained this position, he soon relinquished duties as clan head to focus on the consolidation of his power. He pursued these goals through the traditional methods of marrying his daughters into the Imperial bloodline and arranging high level court appointments for other clan members. Having dispensed of all court rivals, in 1180, Kiyomoro forced the abdication of the sitting emperor and placed his two year old grandson on the Chrysanthemum Throne as the Emperor Antoku, and moved the capital to his own hometown of Fukuhara, modern-day Kobe.

Within a year, forces under the control of the remnants of the Minamoto clan attacked Kiyomori in the opening volley of the Genpei War. Kiyomoto himself died of illness early in the conflict, and his sons were left to wage a five year battle culminating in their slaughter at the naval battle of Dannoura. This battle was fought in the Shimonoseki straits between Honshu and Kyushu. During the battle, the seven year old Emperor Antoku and his attendants leapt into the sea and were drowned. Along with them, one of the three traditional crown jewels, an ancient sword, was lost forever. To this day, the Heike crabs caught in the straits are said by some to bear the souls of defeated Taira warriors.

Taira no Kiyomori funded the construction of new shrine buildings for Itsukushima Shrine near modern-day Hiroshima in 1168. The architectural style he chose is called Shinden, patterned on residences of the nobility in Kyoto. Although the shrine has been rebuilt several times, the style has remained unchanged since the 12th century, and today it is regarded as perhaps the finest surviving example of this style in the country. Kiyomori also played a vital role in establishing Itsukushima as a cultural center, a tradition that continues with numerous performances of classical Japanese dance, music and drama throughout the year.

More Info.:
The Otorii Gate of Itsukushima Shrine
Bugaku
The Kangensai Festival
The Tamatorisai Festival
The Chinkasai Festival
Making the New Year's First Prayers

Matt Mangham

1-1 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi

10 minutes walk from Miyajima pier

Hiroshima station===(Street car No.1, 30min.)===Hiroshima Port===(Ferry, 20min.)===Miyajima

Hiroshima station===(Street car No. 2, 55min.)===Miyajima-guchi===(Ferry , 10 min.)===Miyajima

Hiroshima station===(JR Sanyo Honsen Line, 25min.)===Miyajima-guchi===(Ferry, 10min.)===Miyamima

Open Hours:
12/1 - 12/31: 6:30 - 17:00
1/1 - 1/5: Varies depending on number of visitors
1/6 - 2/28: 6:30 - 17:30
3/1 - 11/30: 6:30 - 18:00

Adult: 300yen
High school student: 200yen
Juniro high school or elementary shool student: 100 yen

Miyajima Tourist Association: http://www.miyajima.or.jp